Conférence : “Les photographies du baron Adolf de Meyer dans Vogue : formes, représentations, idéologies”, Samedi 13 décembre, 9 heures, salle 0.1 de l’IFM, Paris. 

DANS LE CADRE DU COLLOQUE “MODE, VÊTEMENT ET SOCIÉTÉ EN EUROPE DURANT LA PREMIÈRE GUERRE MONDIALE”, 12-13 DÉCEMBRE 2014, IFM (Dir. Maude Bass-Krueger & Sophie Kurkdjian)

“60 chercheurs internationaux venus du monde entier (Allemagne, Canada, Espagne, États-Unis, Finlande, Grande-Bretagne, Grèce, Hongrie, Italie, Norvège, Suède…)   interviendront sur l’histoire de la mode féminine et masculine, des femmes et de la presse féminine en temps de guerre, ainsi que sur les questions d’identité et de genre. Ce colloque sur l’histoire de la mode et de la beauté durant la Première Guerre mondiale est une initiative inédite. Jamais une conférence internationale n’a été organisée sur ce thème.

S’inscrivant dans le cadre des commémorations officielles du Centenaire de la Première Guerre mondiale, ce colloque permettra d’interroger le rôle des femmes durant le conflit, mais aussi des problématiques essentielles d’histoire sociale, économique, culturelle et même politique de la mode et de la beauté, telles que les questions liées au genre et à l’identité, à la production et consommation vestimentaire, à la presse féminine, aux couleurs et aux tissus. Ces questionnements, largement oubliés dans l’historiographie, enrichiront considérablement la recherche en histoire de la mode et de la beauté, en éclairant une période dont les femmes ont longtemps été oubliées. Si l’après-guerre est décrit comme une période de libération pour les femmes (même si, à l’exception des domaines de la mode et de la beauté, il faut en relativiser la portée),  et d’évolution formelle des vêtements qui vont vers plus de simplicité, il faut aller en rechercher les origines durant la Première Guerre mondiale, et c’est ce que colloque entend réaliser : comprendre, découvrir les ressorts de l’émancipation féminine de l’après-guerre, tout en abordant aussi la question de la mode masculine. La dimension internationale et pluridisciplinaire de ce colloque permettra de croiser les regards sur ces questions, et d’envisager l’histoire de la mode, de la beauté et des femmes dans une perspective d’histoire connectée.”

Toutes les informations relatives au programme se trouvent sur :

http://wwifashion.com/

Inscription

https://www.weezevent.com/fashion-dress-and-society-in-europe-during-world-war-i

Location

Institut Français de la Mode, Paris 75013. Bus: 89 & 91. Metro: Quai de la Gare (Line 6), Gare d’Austerlitz (Lines 5, 10 and RER C). Ground floor for conference check-in.

Contact

Maude Bass-Krueger & Sophie Kurkdjian : europeanfashionwwi@gmail.com.

Speakers

Fiona Anderson (Senior Curator of Dress and Textiles, National Museums Scotland): Wool textiles for menswear and men’s fashion in Britain during WWI

Nuria Aragonès (University of Barcelona/ Paris III, Sorbonne): French press during WWI

Ana Balda (University of Navarra, Spain): WWI and its consequences on the consumption of French Haute Couture by Spanish Royalty, aristocracy and high bourgeoisie

Maude Bass-Krueger (PhD candidate, Bard Graduate Center, NYC): La Parisienne et Le Poilu:  Fictions and fantasies of fashionable women and their soldiers during the War

Beatrice Behlen (Senior Curator, Fashion and Decorative Arts, Museum of London): Collecting and displaying WWI at the Museum of London

Muriel Berthou Crestey (Researcher at ITEM): Adolf de Meyer & Vogue, 1914-1918

Ulrika Berglund (PhD candidate, Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University): The neutrality policy and fashion culture in Sweden, 1914-1918

Nele Bernheim (PhD candidate, University of Antwerp): The fashion house Norine, 1915-1918

Cally Blackman (Lecturer, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts, London): The potential of autochrome as a source of visual evidence for dress historians, archives of La Planète created by Albert Kahn

Regina Lee Blaszczyk (Professor, University of Leeds, UK):  “Yankee Ingenuity Confronts Paris Fashion: The Hidden History of How World War I Shaped Color Practice in the American Fashion Business”

Emily Brayshaw (PhD candidate, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia): Gaby Deslys, ostrich feathers, WWI

Maria Carlgren (PhD candidate, University of Gothenburg, Sweden): Wartime fashions in Stockholm and Paris, looking at the artists Valle Rosenberg and Siri Derkert and their fashion collections for the Swedish fashion house Birgittaskolan during WWI

Laura Casal-Valls (University of Barcelona, Spain): Clothes-making in Barcelona during WWI: effects and consequences of the war

Katy Conover (Independent scholar, London): extent couture garments in British collections, 1914-1918

Marguerite Coppens (Curator of the Lace and costumes at the Royal Art and History Museums, Brussels): Lacemaking industry, French and Belgian reactions to stimulate the industry during the war

Manuel Charpy (Professor, iRHis, Lille): Masculine uniform during WWI

Ilaria Coser (Independent scholar, UK): Women fashion journalists, 1914-1918

Jennifer Daley (PhD from the Department of War Studies, King’s College): Political usage of sailor fashion during WWI

Gillian Davies (Retired Professor, Savannah College of Art and Design, USA): Elsie de Wolfe’s style & WWI

Chantal Dhennin (PhD candidate, ULCO, Lille): Le Journal des Réfugiés du Nord & wartime women’s fashion

Burcu Dogramaci (Professor, LMU, Munich): German fashion writings in war times

Lourdes Font (Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology, NYC): American Couture Houses in Paris during the War

Holly Grout (Professor, University of Alabama, USA): Beauty in France during WWI

Birgit Haase (Professor, HAW Hamburg, Germany): “La Crinoline de Guerre: a Feminine Fashion between Past and Future”

Sara Hume (Curator/Assistant Professor, Kent State University Museum): Between fashion and fold – dress practices in Alsace during WWI

Amy de la Haye (Professor, University of the Arts, London): Landgirls’ uniforms, WWI

Stéphane Jacques-Addade (Art Historian and Member of the European Chamber of Art Experts, France): Bernard Boutet de Monvel, a wartime dandy or the evolution of the uniform ‘à l’anglaise,’ 1914-1918

Catherine Join-Dieterle (former Director of the Musée Galliera, Paris): L’Art et la Mode, 1914-1918

Marta Kargol (Jagiollonski University, Krakow): Changing practices of home-made clothing in the neutral Netherlands during the Great War

Andrea Kollnitz (Assistant Professor, Center for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University): Visual Fashion Discourse and British Wartime Society in Punch 1915

Sophie Kurkdjian (IHTP/CNRS, Paris): Representations in women’s press during the War

Nigel Lezama (Professor, Brock University, Ontario, Canada): Le Flambeau & sartorial discourse during the war

Zsolt Mészáros (PhD candidate, Univeristy Eötvös Loránd, Budapest): Male fashion during WWI

Chryssa Mantaka (Assistant Professor of Costume Design at the School of Drama, Aristotle University, Thessaloniki): Dress in Salonica during the Great War, mapping the sartorial profile of the era

Maria Makela (Professor, California College of the Arts, USA): Kunstheide (artificial silk) and the democratization of German fashion

Thierry Maillet (University of Erasmus, Rotterdam): Trend-card manufacturing during WWI

Marie Mcloughlin (Professor, University of Brighton, UK): The evolution of the trench coat, from War Office to High Street

Alisa Miller (Research Fellow, Norwich University of the Arts, UK): Gladys Peto, commercial fashion illustrator and the Sketch – elite consumer culture and the changing image of the modern woman, 1914-1919

Enrica Morini (IULM University, Milano): Margharita’s war & Italian fashion during WWI

Anna Novikov (Deutsches Historisches Institut, Warsaw): Female fashion and patriotism in partitioned Poland during WWI

Lewish Orchard (textile designer, London): The fashion house Lucile, 1914-1918

Christine Pappelau (Bauhaus University Weimar, Germany): The decline of bourgeois fashion and the rise of workers’ clothing during WWI & the Russian Revolution

Alexandra Palmer (Fashion Costume Senior Curator and Chair, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada): WWI garments from the Royal Ontario Museum

Victoria Pass (Salisbury University, Maryland, USA): Chanel, Duchamps and the rise of celebrity culture during WWI

Emmanuelle Polle (journalist, France) & Johanna Zanon (PhD student, University of Oslo): Polle and Zanon will deliver a joint talk on Patou during the Great War derived from material from Polle’s recently published Jean Patou, Une Vie Sur Mesure (Flammarion, 2013).

Alan Price (Retired Professor, Pennsylvania State University): Dressing American relief workers in the Great War, the story of three important American war charities in France

Adelheid Rasche (Curator of the Sammlung Modebild, Berlin): War and Fashion

Georgina Ripley (Curator, Modern & Contemporary Fashion & Textiles, National Museums of Scotland): Lucile & WWI, using dresses from the museum collection

Jennifer Roberts (PhD scholar, Brighton University, UK): Munitions factory worker’s dress in Britain during WWI

Margherita Rosina (Director, Museo Studio del Tessuto Fondazione Antonio Ratti, Como): War-time silk production in the collection of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti

Victoria Rovine (Associate Professor, Art History, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill): The colonial context – French fashion design and the representation of Le Soudan Français

Suzanne Rowland (Museum Educator, London): The rise of the mass-produced blouse, 1914-1918

Guillaume de Syon (Professor, Albright College, Pennsylvania, USA): French aviation adjustment to wartime, 1914-1918

Änne Söll (Research fellow, Institute for Arts and Media, University of Potsdam, Germany): The First World War in the Viennese Fashion Journal “Die Herrenwelt,” 1916-1917

Nadège Sougy (Assistant Professor, University of Neuchâtel, Switzerland): Warheads and patriotic jewelry

Mary Lynn Stewart (Professor, Simon Fraser University, British Columbia, Canada): Marketing Haute Couture during the Great War

Lou Taylor (Professor, University of Brighton, UK): High Society Women in Britain and their Contribution to the War Effort

Patricia Tilburg (Professor, Davidson College, USA): Female garment workers in France during WWI

Elena Trencheva & Joanna Weckman (Postdoc researcher & graduate student in Costume Design, Department of Film, Television and Scenography, School of Arts, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Finland): Visual representation of Finnish identity through dress during WWI

Dominique Veillon (CNRS, Paris): Mourning dress in WWI

Margaret Vining (Curator, Division of Armed Forces History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian) and Dr. Barton C. Hacker (Curator, Division of Armed Forces History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian): Uniforms re-fashioning the woman, 1914-1918, analysis of the collection of WWI uniforms worn by women volunteers in the US and overseas

Janet Watson (Professor, University of Connecticut, USA): Khaki Girls and women war workers’ uniforms during WWI

Eva Maria Zangl (Karl-Franzens, University of Graz, Austria): Manmade fibers and artificial silk during WWI

Steven Zdatny (Professor, University of Vermont, USA): Hairdressing and hairstyles during WWI

---

---